São Tomé and Príncipe
The historic 'Chocolate Islands' of the Gulf of Guinea
São Tomé and Príncipe is a small island producer in the Gulf of Guinea with an outsized place in cacao history. Portuguese settlers imported cacao around 1850 from Bahia, Brazil, and by the early twentieth century the islands had briefly become the world's leading cocoa producer, earning the nickname the 'Chocolate Islands'. The crop was grown on roças — large self-contained plantation estates whose labour history is bound up with forced and contracted workers.
Following independence and the nationalisation and later decline of the roças, output fell far below the colonial peak. Cacao nonetheless remains central to the economy, accounting for a major share of national exports.
The islands' cacao is overwhelmingly Amelonado-derived (Forastero) material descended from the nineteenth-century Brazilian introductions, with some hybrid replanting; because Príncipe was largely bypassed by later replanting, parts of it retain old-plantation stock. The typical profile is an earthy cocoa with warm spice and low acidity. Modern production is led by smallholders and cooperatives, much of it certified organic and Fairtrade, and the islands' shaded agroforestry cacao landscapes were recognised by FAO as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System.
Origins in São Tomé and Príncipe (4)
Sources
- Motamayor et al. 2008, PLoS ONE 3(10):e3311 (genetic clusters)
- Wikipedia — 'Cocoa production in São Tomé and Príncipe': https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocoa_production_in_S%C3%A3o_Tom%C3%A9_and_Pr%C3%ADncipe
- Macao Magazine — 'Chocolate's return to São Tomé and Príncipe': https://macaomagazine.net/chocolates-return-to-sao-tome-and-principe/
- FAO — Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIAHS) designation, 2024